Trail Running The Pinnacles and Billygoat Circuit
- Nicki Munro
- Oct 11
- 10 min read
A special place
If you live on the Coromandel Peninsula, it's unlikely you haven't already tackled a trip to the summit with an overnight stay at New Zealand's largest Department of Conservation (DOC) hut. The rocky, spiny structure of The Pinnacles stand out as an unmistakable landmark - noticeable from a few locations around the Peninsula.
But for me, this location hasn't been just a box to tick. In fact, it was my home for a year in 2009. One of the best seasons of my life was as a hut ranger here - blissing out in my surrounds, meeting like-minded people, and often, just having the place completely to myself. My dad also flew in materials for the current hut and the bridges to get there, so there's that connection too. Whenever I return, it still feels like a second home.
And I wanted to write about this trail as a circuit run (ok, going up is more a walk and jog), because it's the easiest way to keep returning. If you choose to do it too, you'll love the scenery, the challenge, and the rewarding 360 views from the summit. Coming down (provided you have strong knees) it's fun, fast, and certainly a little bit technical in places. There is also loads of history from the Kauri tree logging days, so if you want to make the trip a little longer (and need a chance to catch your breath) you can stop at the information panels.
I hope this post inspires you to check it out, whether it's a half day trail run, full day hike. or maybe even an overnight hike / tramp with a stay at Pinnacles hut or campground.
Rating: 10/10
Trail companion: Solo
Time: 3 - 5 hours
Distance: 17.5km
Max elevation: 759m
Total elevation: 1095m
Planning your own trip? Click here for the logistics section
Starting out
Oooh I love those mornings! It's still dark, the bed is cozy, and the alarm has just gone off, but it's not for work (YAY!). Carefully laid out clothes await, ready to be layered on, and you wonder how it can be down to just shorts and t-shirt in a few hours time. The running pack is... packed, apart from making up some fresh electrolytes.
Porridge, coffee, out the door....
The drive from Thames up the Kauaeranga Valley, is an adventure in itself. Tight corners sidle the Kauaeranga River banks that you'll be crossing early into your run. When the road turns to gravel, the potholes keep your focus in check, and your thankful the early morning means there's hardly any traffic coming the other way on the mostly 1.5 car width road.
The Pinnacles Track (Kauaeranga Kauri Trail)
On this occasion, I started off on a Sunday morning (pros and cons for this listed further down) so the car park at the beginning of the track was pretty full from trampers overnighting at Pinnacles Hut on a busy Saturday. I still managed to snag a park under a tree, which I knew would be providing shade by the time I returned.
First things first with many trails around the north island - a scrub down and spray at the Kauri Dieback cleaning station. Dieback is slowly killing our endemic Kauri species, so it's important to take those extra couple of minutes at the beginning and end of the adventure.
This particular morning was pretty cold, so after the cleaning was done - I started off with a slow jog (also knowing this was some of the few sections of flat terrain i'd be on for the rest of the day). The first swingbridge arrives quickly, crossing over into Nikau-clad bush, leading you into the valley that is Webb Creek.
When people think of the Pinnacles track, I'd say the first thing that comes to mind are the steps. Once they start, they don't really stop. So after you pass the Moss Creek junction taking the right-hand fork up the hill.... take it steady.
Is the Pinnacles track hard? It really depends on your fitness. My description has always been - it's short and sharp. Yes it's steep and there are lot of stairs, but it's over relatively quickly compared to tracks that are longer with more flat sections. If you're eyeing this up for a trail run with the Billygoat Circuit return - I'll call it intermediate.
Asides from the stairs (which are actually really impressive when you realise how they've been cleverly carved out since the kauri logging days) there's beautiful sections of the track that cross the Webb Creek via swing bridges. On this day the mist was filling the gully and rising up out of the bush line.
I was really trying to jog the flats, walk the stairs, and take water breaks at the stream crossings, otherwise moving consistently. Within 70 minutes I was up to my favourite ridge, looking up to the Pinnacles summit with only a few minutes to go to the hut.
At the hut you can use the toilet, get some water, read more about the history, and usually find a hut ranger if you have any questions.
Pinnacles Hut to the Pinnacles Summit
From the hut, it's another 20 - 30 minutes to the top of the Pinnacles. And if you hadn't had enough stairs already, this last dose should do the trick.
It's not worth trying to race this part - there are so many changing viewpoints and perspectives; out to the east over Tairua and Pauanui, back to the hut and further north up the Coromandel Range, and out to the Hauraki Plains to the west. Eventually, at the top of the block stairs (before the real climbing begins), you'll get more views to the south towards Hikuai and Whangamata too.
And I always stop here, because if my breath hasn't already been completely taken away by the stair climb, the scenery, dramatic rock features, and 360 degree views certainly do. I came up here so much when I was hut rangering, and no matter what the weather was doing, or the time of day (or year), it always put on a different show.
The last few minutes are a bit of a scramble to the summit. Take it easy, and you'll get there. If you have a fear of heights or get vertigo, I think it's still worth trying an attempt. The sturdy ladders and rungs are well placed to hold and step on to, and if you stick to the track - it's all perfectly safe.
I spent this particular morning at the top, gobbling down an OSM and looking out to my hometown on the coast, and beyond. It was a crystal clear morning, a Sunday, and still had the summit to myself!
The Fun Part - Pinnacles Summit To The Start Of The Billygoat Track
To be honest, there's not much speed happening right from the top. The track is slippery in places and you have all those rungs and ladders to come back down until you reach the boxed stairs again. Then - it's hold on to your kneecaps! Everything you just came up, you're about to revisit, and more.
I love running all of this section, especially the part between Pinnacles Hut and the Hydrocamp (where the Billygoat track starts). This is a great chance to test your speed and agility as the there's good sections to stride out, as well as navigating the rock features.
The Billygoat Track
NOTE! Do not go this way if there has been heavy rain, and / or the river looked swollen when you crossed the first swing bridge on the way up. At the bottom of the track there is no swing bridge to get you back over the Kauaeranga River to your car. Do not attempt it.
At the old hydro camp make sure you go left. This is where you branch off from the track you know, taking you form the Hydrocamp through the Billygoat basin and past the Billygoat campsite. It welcomes back some more uphill sections, a bit of mud, and slippery rocks. Yes, there are more stairs too - but they are more sporadic than if you continue down the way you came up (the Webb Creek Track).
I read a lot of reports about how "bad" the Billygoat Track is in the way of maintenance and mud. Remember that this is a different grade of track compared to the highway of the Kauaeranga Kauri Trail, and so is frequented less often by hikers, and therefore ranger attention. So yes - it is more muddy, and you might have to navigate around the odd fallen tree, but be prepared with the right footwear and you'll be fine. Experienced trailers - you get it, but for those with less time on the trails, it's slightly more rugged than the rest of the circuit but still totally do-able and navigable.
At the Billygoat Campsite there's a chance for a toilet stop, and if you keep your eyes peeled, there's a spot to take a dip in the river above the Billygoat Falls (180 meters).
Keep to the right as you pass the Hihi and Tarawaere Tramping Track junctions, and you'll follow the tramline past the incline and trestles that were used in place of the failed attempts to transport Kauri logs out over the Billygoat Falls (not surprisingly, they got a bit too splintered). There are incredible old photos on the informations boards along the entire Billygoat Track that are worth reading too if you are interested in this period between the 1870's and 1920's.
Dejavu strikes as you get back into the Nikau groves after your final stretch of knee testing. A short meander through the bush brings you back in acquaintance with the Kauaeranga River. This is where you'll need to pick your way through the crossing but it's a good chance to wash all the mud off your shoes, so don't worry about getting them wet! I love this part because my feet are pretty grateful for the cold, soothing rush of water by this stage.
A short 300 meter stroll brings you back to your car from the other side of the river. By now the car park is usually full of trampers that have come back down from the hut, and people out for a day hike. It's a good buzz, and there's lots of place to stretch out in the sun (or shade) before eyeing up one of the many swimming holes for a dip on the drive back down the Kauaeranga Valley.
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Planning your own trip
Accomodation before and after your adventure
Kauaeranga Valley
DOC has many beautiful campsites in the far reaches of the Kauaeranga Valley, and many of them are close to swimming holes. Check out this link for a list of them $
Riversong Retreat (Book-a-Bach). Great for both small and large groups $$$
Thames
The Lady Bowen (Bed & Breakfast) $$
Tuscany on Thames (Motel with a pool) $$$
Track considerations
KAURI DIEBACK PREVENTION: Clean your shoes and poles (if using) before you go, removing any visible dirt. THEN, when you arrive at the track entrance scrub and wash down your shoes and poles with the treatment provided.
RIVER CROSSINGS: As mentioned several times in this blog, the streams and river can get flooded. For most streams on the way up you can use the swing bridges to get across, If they are swollen though, you won't have much chance crossing the Kauaeranga River at the end of the Billygoat Ciruit. If this is the case - just go back down the way you came up (the Webb Creek Track) and don't attempt the Billygoat section of the run because you don't want to have to back-track up that!
TOILETS: There are toilets at the start and end of the track, Pinnacles Hut, and Billygoat Basin Campsite.
WATER: I used to drink water straight from the streams (and still would) by going above the level where people would cross, and skimming it from the top of a fast flowing section. I now use a water filter device with my soft flasks. I never had an issue without it, but there's always the chance of giardia. You can also refill the water at the hut (DOC recommends to boil it first). Again, I used to drink it no worries (for a whole year) but now use my filter just in case.
BUSY WEEKENDS: The hut is usually full on a Friday and Saturday night, and it's an 80 bunk hut - plus campsites! So if you decide to go on a Friday or weekend - consider this. Friday and Saturday start your run early (6 - 10am) so you don't have to continually pass trampers on the way up. On a sunday you won't have many people going up apart from day hikers, but you will have people coming down that you'll have to pass on your return. I start at about 6am and don't see anyone on the way up, and only have to pass a few people on the return. Most people don't take the Billygoat Track either so you're clear after that.
What to pack
Just your usual trail running gear. Make sure you have something warm for the summit, and being the Coromandel Ranges, take a light rain jacket even if it's not raining.
Water refills are possible on the Web Creek section and at the hut, but not as common on the Billygoat - so stock up at the hut (see track considerations above).
Wear proper trail runners! Road shoes won't cut it on the Billygoat.
Safety Items and comm's (see below)
Safety
Let someone you know and trust, know where you're going and what time you'll get back. There is no reception at the car park though so allow time to drive back out the valley (an extra 30 - 40 minutes).
Be careful not to leave valuable items in your car. NOTE! There are safety lockers at the Kauaeranga Valley Visitor Centre which you pass on the way up.
Check the weather, and water level. You will get a good idea of river levels when you are driving up the valley and when you cross the first swing bridge.
Take an emergency blanket, a warm layer and light rain jacket, whistle, headtorch, basic first-aid kit, and a charged phone (although reception is limited). A locator device is bonus.
Helpful and Interesting Links
If you are travelling, leave your valuable items at the Kauaeranga Valley Visitor Centre on the way up. It is worthwhile spending some time here too to learn about the history, natural environment, and conservation efforts in the area.
Kauri Protection
https://www.kauriprotection.co.nz/
Te Ara Encyclopedia - Kauri Logging information
https://teara.govt.nz/en/photograph/30432/logging-kauri-driving-dams
DOC Website - Kauri Dams in the Coromandel
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