An Epic Multi-Day Hike Traversing the Coromandel Ranges via Crosbies Hut and the Hihi Trig
- Nicki Munro
- 1 day ago
- 13 min read
Come on our three day, point-to-point tramp from the Tapu-Coroglen summit to the Broken Hills campsite
When I lingre over maps, and plan shorter day walks, I often think about how I could join them toghether, just to keep going for as long as possible with as little civilisation interference as possible. Conjuring up this one didn't take long though - I'd recently taken a walk around the Broken Hills on a short day hike and remembered walking the Hihi Trig track about 15 years prior, coming out from the Pinnacles Hut when I was a hut ranger there.
I know some people will have done this route before, but until doing it myself - I hadn't met anyone personally who had. In saying that, there are a few people I know that have done the crossing from Broken Hills to the Rangihau Road (also near the Tapu-Coroglen road, but on the eastern side). While the Rangihau tramping track is still pretty rough - it is definitely the Hihi Trig section that really tests a person going in either direction.
While planning the route, I wanted the most north-to-south bearing, and considering I hadn't stayed at Crosbies Hut or Campsite before (shame on me I know), I thought it would be great to break it up in three days; Tapu-Coroglen summit to Crosbies, Crosbies to the Kauaeranga Valley (coming out at Booms campsite), and Kauaeranga Valley to Broken Hills Campsite / Puketui Valley road-end. I just needed a companion as I hadn't done a proper tramp since my calf injury, and to be honest - I was feeling a little hesitant about testing it on this particular route. As you'll read, it certainly had a good test! So, let's dive in to the full account of our trip -->
Rating: 9/10
Trail companion: Jay
Planning your own trip and just here for the logisitics? Click Here
Setting Out: A Scenic Drive up the Thames Coast and Tapu-Coroglen Road
We had a leisurely start to the morning – a good breakfast and coffee in front of the fire while watching the WSL surfing competition get underway - we knew we’d be safe to start walking around 09.30am.
The weather forecast had shown a big high over us for the coming three days, but we drove up the Thames Coast in overcast, grey light and not really feeling the crisp autumn blue-skied morning we’d hoped for. The Thames Coast is always a beautiful drive though, winding it’s way along the firth, and hugging the Pohutakawa-fringed shoreline closely at all times.
On reaching the small coastal village of Tapu we turned right onto the Tapu-Coroglen road which initially follows the Tapu River. The road soon switches from sealed to gravel and starts climbing and winding into the thickly bush-clad Coromandel Forest Park that we’d soon be traversing through on foot.
Day 1. Tapu-Coroglen Summit to Crosbies Hut
Time: ~ 4 - 4.5 hrs
Distance: ~ 9.5km
The track starts at the summit of the Tapu-Coroglen road, which is closer to the Thames coast side than Coroglen - approximately 3.5kms from the popular Square Kauri Walk. We spotted it easily enough, and there’s a roomy pull-over area on the opposite side of the road to get dropped off. I wouldn’t recommend leaving your car here though (and neither does DOC), as it’s remote with nil security.
The large sign at the start of the track has a misleading time for getting to Crosbies Hut (see zoom in of photo below). If you look close enough you can see someone has scratched through it to put in the time of 5 hours. We thought perhaps this person was just slow – but a sign further down the track confirms it must have been a misprint. You’ve been warned - don’t get too excited!
A steady climb takes you up from the road to test if you’re ready for the rest of the day. Then there’s a bit of descent, before going up again. And this is how the pattern goes for the whole day!
There aren’t too many view points, apart from small snippets out to the Thames Coast, and into the gullies below. Instead, take the time to notice the rimu, ponga, tawa and many other natives, which are all in abundance in this dense forest (including thick supplejack / kareao so watch your step)!
We were surprised at the amount of birdlife too - a welcome change! Not that it was absolutely teaming, but the kererū (wood pigeon) and Pīwakawaka (fantail) were enough to make us comment. We also spotted tūī, miromiro (tomtit), and a silent fly over from a ruru (morepork – our native owl).
Eventually we came across the junctions for the Waiomu Creek Road track and the Te Puru Rd Creek track (not too far from each other), before walking through a noticeable area where it was obvious that a form of civilisation had been settled here before.
And soon enough we found the sign that explained all about the history of Crosbies Clearing.
The track got more interesting as it opened up to show views of the surrounding ridgelines. The sun had finally come out and we only had a little bit of mud to trudge through and one more short but steep incline to the hut.
Sounds of awe came into expression as we reached the platform where Crosbies Hut is perched. 360 degree views in the afternoon light, lit up all the features of the Coromandel Range enhanced by the shadows of the undulating terrain. There was only one other person there to greet us who was sitting in solitude on a well positioned bench, taking it all in.
We found the designated campsite on the southern side of the hut, and got set up for the evening ahead.
Day 2. Crosbies Hut to the Kauaeranga Valley (Totara Flat Campsite and a Compulsory Swim)
Time: ~ 4 hrs + 15 minutes
Distance: ~ 11.5 kms
We dropped straight back down into the bush for the start of day two. An overall descent, but still plenty of up-hill sections to break up the quad burners.
There was a lot of following ridgelines, a little bit of mud, an open feel (although under the canopy the entire time), and overall we really enjoyed the route the trail took. The forest and bird life was very similar to the day before, but as the track descended further into the Kauaeranga Valley we noticed more Nikau trees dominating the understory, and eventually we passed a few large, old Kauri trees that we’d been promised by our new friend from the hut (he’d come up this way).
The track finishes up at the Booms Campsite (make sure you note this as many old maps show it following an old track the ends further west of the Booms Campsite. Even DOC mentions it on their site but the map has not been updated). You could easily use this site as your home for the night – it’s a lovely campground. But we were headed for the Totara Flat campsite next to the river but a bit further up the road (about 2km).
**Note; don’t bother staying at Trestle View Campsite. It’s at the carpark for the Pinnacles Hut – quite busy, no easy access to the river - wouldn’t recommend.
Our initial intention when planning the journey was to see how we felt by the time we got to the Kauaranga Valley and possibly push on through to the Billygoat Landing Campsite. When we found out the Billygoat Circuit Track was closed though, we scrapped the idea (but keep it in mind for yourself if you still feel fresh and if the Billygoat Track has been re-opened). This would probably take another hour to 1.5 hrs from the Totara Flat Campsite.
Totara Flat campsite is awesome. We were the only ones there, right next to the river. Whenever there is any kind of water source on our trips, there is a compulsory end-of-day swim rule (we missed having this at Crosbies Clearing). In May, it was pretty cold! But nothing like some of the places we’ve gotten used to at higher elevations being fed by snowy mountains. It was the right amount to be refreshing, and it was so good to feel clean!
It was an early night (as you do when camping), and praying for a good sleep before a massive day to come.
Day 3. Kauaeranga Valley to Broken Hills Carpark via the Tarawaera and the Hihi Trig Track
Time: 9 hrs
Distance: 12.5km
We almost turned around right at the very start of this day. I never go against my gut feeling, and my gut was saying - "not today". I wasn’t exactly hike-fit after 18 months of a nagging calf injury. The sign said 9 hours over 12km and that was for taking the Billygoat Track up (closed at this time and we’d be taking a steeper, less-trodden route to the Hihi Junction via the Tarawaere – Billygoat Link Track). The big high we were expecting to bring us clear skies, wasn’t showing up as expected – instead a light drizzle had persisted to switch on and off over the morning and wasn’t showing signs of clearing.
We started walking away in disappointment, before I couldn't help but say – “well let's just see what the river looks like”. Jay was keen - he let me know he was up for the challenge, but was also letting me make that final decision.
What didn’t build our confidence was that DOC had made it obvious they didn’t want people going up the Billygoat by putting a big no entry tape over the track entrance, that lead to the river, that then – after crossing, branched off to Billygoat and Tarawaere. So we ducked through the tape feeling a little guilty, but I had called the DOC office a few days earlier to see if Tarawaere was still open, and I’d been assured it was.
Staring at the water, the river was perfectly passable and the track marker on the opposite side beaconed us on. “Ok – let’s do it”!
The signs and markers on the opposite side were very clear, and we navigated our way through the Nikau groves as the rain continued to trickle through the canopy. We’re usually up for a few good snack breaks (who isn’t?) but today was going to be about balancing those energy intakes, while still keeping a good pace up, and staying as warm and dry as possible. From this moment and for the rest of the day, we didn’t muck around.
The bush was pretty and tropical in appearance, with a few small stream crossings at first. When it came to the point of taking the longer, but less steep route via Tarawaera Dam or the steeper and more direct Tarawaere – Billygoat Link track, we opted for the latter. And straight up it went – removing our packs and hoisting ourselves up the first section to get on to a ridge where Kauri and Rimu trees started dominating the trail edges. I can imagine this trail would be perfectly fine for a day walk, but with our packs filled with multi-day hiking supplies, we were working hard for our mileage.
I loved this part of the trail though – and made note to come back to complete a shorter circuit where I could take my time and take it all in a little better. A good circuit would be either around the Tarawaere Dam, or back down the Billygoat (when it re-opens).
When the steepness resided, we knew we weren’t too far from the track junction that intersected the Billygoat Basin Campsite and the Hihi – Broken Hill Track. Not before some slippery sections though, and an introduction to the mud that would slow us down for a good 2.5km to the Hihi Trig station.
The Tarawaere had, as predicted, taken more time to reach this junction than if we’d been able to go up the Billygoat. Looking at the map it looked like the Hihi summit was only two hours away. But that mud - boy does it slow you down! Knee-high (or higher if you weren’t careful), litterally sucked our time up. That, and sections of ropes and pack pass-overs. By the time we reached the Hihi, we were another 45 minutes slower than expected.
We took a good 15 minutes at the top to refuel and hydrate, swap out damp clothing for dry, and prepared ourselves for the descent into the Broken Hills. We touched base with my mum who was picking us up and informed her we were running two hours behind schedule, and I knew I could call her again from a cellphone coverage point about 40 minutes from the road end.
The descent for the start was pretty steep. But eventually as we dropped more in to the bush, we ended up on trails that were similar to our first two days – ridges with steep drop offs to each side, but views that made the rest of the day feel worthwhile. It was now just a test of endurance really, and keeping our wits about us as the fatigue set in around the seven hour mark.
We had one more plonk-ourselves-in-the-middle-of-the-track refuel stop near where it branches off to an old dam relic. I knew the track from here - the easy parts, and the last steep part that would test-us after a days worth of hard slog. I called mum again at the 40 minutes to go mark, as she was just walking out the door. We would be at the road end just as night fell.
We took our foot off the pedal and focused on each step, just to make sure that one silly movement wouldn’t ruin it for us just when we thought we were safe.
And then we were there! And we couldn’t believe we almost didn’t do it.
I don’t know what kind of lesson that is. I’m still going to listen to my gut 99% of the time, but I’m glad I didn’t this time.
Because I’d had an injury for so long – I couldn’t remember when I’d last been that exhausted – and it felt really good to be in that state again! I hobbled around gratefully for the next couple of days with aching muscles I’d almost forgotten were there.
Final thoughts and Recommendations
In the Coromandel, we lack multi-day tracks that go longer than an overnight. The Pinnacles hut is also very popular, and for me it was nice to be back on tracks where you don’t see another soul. If this is what you’ve been missing, I would highly recommend this route.
If day three looks like too much of a task, I think an awesome way to break it up, would be to go from Kauaeranga Valley to the Billygoat Basin Campsite via Webb Creek on day three. Then on Day four – you only have the Hihi section without a big climb to start the day (still a solid section though).
Trekking poles were a saviour on this tramp. We never used to use them, but since my calf injury I had started using them for the up-hills. But to be honest, I don’t know how we would’ve faired without them. This is definitely a tramping route – and there's not always easy foot placements. It’s also very steep and muddy in sections. If you’re tossing up whether or not to use them, just do it.
The major logistical issue for this route is transport. Getting someone to drop you off at Tapu – Coroglen Summit should be easy enough, but getting the timing right for the pick-up is a bit more difficult due to lack of cell phone reception along the route, and no reception at Broken Hills Campsite / Puketui Valley Road-end. I would recommend choosing someone reliable who has the afternoon off, giving them an ETA within a couple of hours timeframe (e.g. we’ll be out sometime on Sunday between 3pm and 5pm). Then when you get to the Hihi Trig you’ll have reception to update them, and then again at the intersection of the look-out point, which is about 30 – 45 minutes from the road end (we didn’t go the Collins Drive tunnel way).
See "Planning your own trip" below for further comments and considerations.
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Check out more of our favourite photos & videos from this trip
Planning your own trip
Where to Stay
On Route
Night 1. Crosbies Hut or Crosbies Campsite
Bookings Essential - Book Here
Night 2. Kauaeranga Valley: Booms Campsite if you plan to make it a 4 day trip (See above under Final Thoughts and Recommendations OR Totara Flats Campsite (for 3 or 4 day option - we recommend this one), OR Billygoat Basin Campsite via the Billygoat Track if you're fit and want to shorten day 3. Check the track is open through.
Night 3. If you've decided you want to make it a 4 day trip, go via the Webb Creek Track to the Billygoat Basin Campsite. You can book online here for the campsite.
After Hike
There is a campsite at the end of the route called Broken Hills Campsite. You can stay here if you haven't arranged transport, and walk or hitch a ride out the next day to Hikuai / Presscots Service Station where you'll have reception and access to SH 25. You should book this in advance as well.
What to Pack
Transport & Other Logisitics
Transport
You will someone to drop you off at the start (Tapu summit) and pick you up from the end (Puketui Valley Road end / Broken Hills Campsite). It is not recommended to leave a car at either of these places.
Don't have anyone in mind? Contact us through the "contact" section on the website and we'll see if we can help you out.
Communications
Ideally, take something with 2-way sattelite communications because cellphone coverage is VERY limited on this route. On day 1 we had cell phone coverage where we broke out of the bush well before the hut (but not at the hut). Nothing on day 2. Day 3 we got it only just beofre the Hihi trig. If Cell is all you have keep it on flight mode.
Be Prepared to Walk Out on Day 2
The Kauaeranga River does not have a bridge at the start of the Billygoat or Tarawaere track. Be prepared to either call it quits and walk out to the visitor centre (and hitch a ride to Thames), sit it out in one of the campgrounds, or go around the Webb Creek Track which is bridged, but will make it a lot longer. I would also interpret the sign of a swollen river as an indicator that the rest of the (already rough) track - will be in a much worse state after heavy rain. Probabaly best to save it for another day.
Safety
Leave your intentions with someone who you trust to follow up on your safe arrival at the finish.
Enter your details and intentions in each hut's logbook when you stay. It is a good idea to put them in even if you're just passing through.
Check the weather, and get familiar with where there are river crossings.
Take a personal locator beacon (PLB) or InReach tracker.
Carry all safety equipment listed in our packing checklist
The track is was well marked when we did it, but becuase it is a traming route, there are stages of the year when it is more overgrow / trees down etc. Take a map and or GPS.
If you have any concerns or want more information about the state of the tracks - contact Kauaeranga Valley Visitor Centre
Phone: | |
Email: |
Helpful & Interesting Links
DOC Coromandel Forest Park information https://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/coromandel/places/coromandel-forest-park/
Crosbies Clearing History https://www.thetreasury.org.nz/the-journal/crosbies-settlement-coromandel-forest-park
Protecting Kauri https://www.kauriprotection.co.nz/
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