Round the Mountain Track - Mt Ruapehu: Hiking the Southern Circuit in Tongariro National Park
- Nicki Munro
- 30. Sept.
- 15 Min. Lesezeit
Forming the backbone of Tongariro National Park rises Mt Ruapehu – the highest and mightiest in the North Island / Te Ika-a-Māui. Known for both it’s snowy winter appeal, and moonlike summer contours, on this hike - every day offers a different perspective, increasing admiration, and overwhelming respect.
Often stealing popularity from this circuit is the shorter 'Great Walk' called the Northern Circuit, and day hike – the Tongariro Crossing. Both are undoubtedly beautiful, but the secret’s long been out, so expect very busy trails (like highway busy) through the Great Walk Season.
If you’re like me though, and prefer seeking something more adventurous, remote, and in many ways more dramatic, the Southern Circuit (also known as Round the Mountain or RTM) needs to be on your list. This 73 km loop track can be hiked in four to six days.
Here’s our personal account from our trip in May 2024. We savoured every day and experienced all huts on route by taking six days (five nights) to complete it in anti-clockwise direction.
Rating: 11/10!
Trail companion: Jay Munro (husband)
Planning your own trip??
If you’re just here for the logistics, please click here.
Setting out: Whangamata to Whakapapa Village
Does anyone really sleep very well when there's a 3.30am alarm set the night before? For me, let's just say there was a beeline to the plunger set up and ready to go on the kitchen counter. Then, clothes on (t-shirt back to front), before chucking our packs in the back of the truck. It was cold and frosty, but we knew this was the sign of a beautiful, blue-bird day ahead.
The 4.5-hour trip flew by with good tunes, the slow change from darkness to light eventually welcoming a beautiful sunrise, and some hearty snacks in place of breakfast. Day one was going to be our easiest day, so we weren’t under much pressure - but an early arrival at the hut was our goal.
We arrived at Whakapapa Village with the lively bustle of trampers, day hikers, and sightseers excitedly getting ready for their day’s adventure. After parking up, we walked up to the visitor centre, got an updated track and hut report, mountain weather report, and gave them the registration number of our vehicle.
It already felt like we’d covered so much, but at just 9.30am, we were finally ready to uplift our packs, and head off.
Day 1. Whakapapa Village to Whakapapaiti Hut
For this day and the last day, we saw the most people (and in May, I mean about 15). The trail starts off on the Silica Rapids Track meandering through the mountain beech forest, which is popular with day hikers. It is a gentle warm up on an easy, well-formed track, before appearing out in the open tussock with full views of Mt Ruapehu in all its glory.
There are only a few short climbs for day one, lots of boardwalks, and bridges over the rivers, until the very last river crossing (Whakapapaiti River). This one is just before the hut and we waded through it. It is a short crossing, and at the time, was about knee high. At this point, I was happy to be arriving at the hut early to dry my boots and socks in the sun for as long as possible.
We arrived at Whakapapaiti Hut not long after lunch to find only one other man who had been staying there for a while. We spent the afternoon lying around in the sun, reading, drinking cups of tea, and preparing our gear for the following day.
Two hunters also came in in the late afternoon. It was really starting to get chilly with the clear open skies, so the fire got started just before sun down, and it was a cozy evening and early night for all of us.
Day 2. The hardest day
Crossing the valleys to Mangaturuturu Hut
On day one we had actually considered walking through to this next hut. This would have been a huge mistake! Don’t underestimate this day especially if you’re walking anti-clockwise like we were doing, with supplies for another four nights. *See considerations in the logistics section.
Difficulty aside, this day had that big, open, “I-feel-so-insignificant-but-in-a-good-way” feeling.
We started out at about 8 am saying goodbye to our new hut friends, not realising this was the last time we’d be sharing our sleeping quarters with other people.
The first 20 minutes was a gentle uphill in the bush, before reaching the junction by Bruce Road where we turned right and head down the first scoria-clad valley in the upper reaches of the Whakapapaiti River.
But what goes down must go back up again. This sequence happened a few times as we crossed the Makatote Valley (fun fact - the Makatote River is the one that passes under the impressive Makatote Viaduct between National Park and Ohakune), and the Manganui-O-te-Ao Valley. More scoria, and on the edge of the upper bush line, it was a case of taking your pack off and passing it up.
Five and a half hours had passed (the time recommended between huts, going in the opposite direction) and we still hadn’t reached Lake Surprise. When we did finally reach it, the surprise factor had definitely gone out of it! She was very beautiful nonetheless, and we took a few photos and edged around her carefully as the sun hadn’t got to this section of the track all day.
A couple of chutes got us down to the Mangaturuturu River Valley - the sun close approaching the horizon by this time. With no clear path of where the track went up on the other side, we just chose the shallowest and widest pass to cross and thought to figure it out when we got there. Instinct paid off and we scrambled up the side, landing close to what looked like a camping spot with the Mangaturuturu Hut just through the trees.
We were shattered when we arrived at the hut. It took us 7.5 hours which was two hours longer than expected. A tough day is a rewarding day though – everything feels more well deserved and luxurious at the end. The fresh clothes, warm fire, hot food and drink, and a cozy sleeping bag. No-one else arrived and we slept like logs from 7 pm to 5 am… 10 solid hours of recharging for the next day.
Day 3. “We’re not going up there?!”
Despite rain to start the day, this was our favourite
One of the reasons we decided to walk RTM anti-clockwise from Whakapapa Village was that we knew rain was coming on day three, and we wanted to get over the unbridged crossings before river crossings could possibly become impassable (this had happened when I attempted this tramp many years before, cutting the trip short). So, when we awoke to rain, a few hours before predicted, we got ourselves ready to head out at first light.
I knew what we had ahead of us – I’d walked this section on a day hike with my mum. About 1.5 – 2 hours of walking (clambering at times) up a slippery waterfall, river crossing, and navigating the rocky lava fields to Ohakune Mountain Road.
We started out of the hut with our waterproofs on and headed up out of the valley floor. Despite the rain, it was peaceful and still. The track and boardwalk allowed us to set a good pace, until eventually the cascading falls came into sight.
Jay looked up and said, “we’re not going up there?!” Until you’re right on top of it, the grey rock in the pouring rain looks like you couldn’t take one step up without sliding back down. It is vertical. Once you start though, you’re on your way – one foot hold, one rock, one ledge at a time. Being careful to keep an eye on the orange markers for the appropriate time to cross, we crossed over about halfway up the falls. Then there was more clambering up the ridge where some areas were slippery from the silica stained deposits covering the rock.
This section was by far one of, if not the most dramatic and beautiful sections of the hike. In fact – I think the rain made it extra special. Unfortunately, because we were on a mission to beat the potential rivers rising, we didn’t stop to take photos. I wish we’d got just one though!
Now crossing the lava ridge, we became aware of another issue - visibility. We were getting above the precipitation, and into the clouds. Again, pace on and a keen eye for the next orange marker pole, we were making good time and allowed ourselves a few photos and some scroggin with the clouds swirling around us, before we got to the Ohakune Mountain Road.
Oh the mountain road. If I was going to name one part of the hike that I didn’t enjoy, it would be the three kilometers of downhill to rejoin the track on the other side. The rain was on and off, and the impact of the hard tarseal surface on my shins wasn’t fun. I slowed down here, before deciding to have lunch at the entrance to the connecting track. We still had two to three hours to go.
Beautiful beech-lined trails lead us most of the way to Tongariro National Park’s tallest waterfall – Waitonga Falls. Then there were a couple of rock-hop areas to get over the river, before continuing on through more mountain beech forest, alpine tussock, crossing swing bridges, and finally, rising up on a ridge to find the backdoor to Mangaehuehu Hut.
This place had the most exceptional views to watch the afternoon fade away, and Ruapehu is ever-present standing guard over the hut.
Day 4. Ice, Ice baby!
Our legs were feeling well warmed-up by now, but oh boy… the boardwalk sections certainly were not. We left early (as usual) but on this day, maybe leaving it an hour or two later would have been a better idea.
Facing south, this section did not see the sun much at all – least of all at this time of day. It was a VERY slippery, treacherous, and slow morning. The southern circuit is considered a tramping track, and doesn’t get the same TLC as the front country tracks. There was well-intentioned boardwalks in place to protect the fragile alpine vegetation, but there was no traction at all and it was collapsing in sections.
With strong intentions not to be those hikers, we sacrificed our safety to not tread on the vulnerable and delicate flora. We looked ridiculous - taking careful, microscopic step placements, before finally calling break to hang our legs over the edge, pulling out the snacks, and waiting for a bit more sun to carry on.
And then, once again, everything just changed. We were walking on the moon, with the most intense and exaggerated angles of Ruapehu towering over us. This mountain never ceased to show us a more impressive version every day.
When we got to the Waihianoa Gorge, we took one look at it, and decided lunch was called for. Our legs were no longer feeling fresh, and by the look of this next endeavour, weren't going to allow us much more without some fuel.
Just at this point, a head popped up over the ledge. They had just come from the other side of the gorge. We had a laugh together because apparently, looking at it from both directions summons up the same feelings of agitation.
This was again, the only person we’d seen for the day and we asked him if he’d shared the last hut with anyone. “Ah yeah, it was me... and a hundred f’ing mice!”. We all laughed (for some reason). We had heard there was a serious mouse issue at Rangipo Hut, but we’d also heard the same for the previous hut and hadn’t had an issue.
We got through the valley much easier than expected, and soon after arrived at the mouse motel. They made themselves known pretty early. We found where they were coming in, blocked it off, and set our sleeping bags up on the top bunks.
Day 5. Walking on the moon & a sunrise like no other
Sixteen years separates the two morning’s I’ve woken up at Rangipo hut, and both were almost identical. Cup of coffee in hand, watching the sky transition from star clustered, to deep purple, to pink, to yellow, then all colours together at once over the desert landscape. Few places have topped this sunrise for me, and that’s saying a lot.
Nothing too steep, nothing too slippery, we marched off, covering ground easily, but with several stops for water refills. For most of this day we were walking over Rangipo Desert - the North Islands only true desert landscape due to its shelter from the predominate westerly rain direction. You have to see it to understand it, because this isn't your typical desert cliche. It was a long, but easier day in comparison. Several areas have “Do Not Stop, Lahar Zone” signs, and we must have taken that moto all the way through to Waihohonu Hut.
As we were nearing the end of our trip with just one more night on the trail to come, our last hut of the circuit overlapped with the Northern Circuit. Usually completely booked out over the Great Walk Season, we were sure to arrive with a half-full hut (being only a few days out from said season). We passed a lady heading the other way to us and she said the hut had 12 others that previous night. That’s pretty quiet!
When we arrived, Waihohonu was bathing in full sunlight. The last time I’d been here, I stayed in the old hut. I love those huts. But it had been overbooked / people just showed up, and there was people spread out on the floor and deck.
This new hut (that I can’t really call new anymore, it’s been around for 15 years) should be on Amazing Spaces. It’s so damn pretty that we were taking notes for our dream house. It has two large bunk rooms, spread out kitchen spaces, and big, almost cathedral-like windows. The balconies cleverly wrap around it, optimising the afternoon sun positions, while framing both Mt Ngauruhoe and Ruapehu to perfection for the falling sun.
After setting up our beds, we wandered down to the stream for a dip before lying out on the deck - reading, and eating the last of our food, because tomorrow was our last day.
No one else arrived - 26 other empty bunks.
Day 6. Snow arrives
The last day walking the Round the Mountain Track of Mt Ruapehu
The (obvious) thing with tramping outside of the warmer season is having more uncertainty around what the weather will bring. It is also colder, wetter, and can potentially bring snow. I love the cold, if not thrive in it, and am no stranger to being snowed in, or having to make my way out of a hike after a descent snowfall.
Like the first day, this walk was going to have easier terrain. We knew light rain, and possible snow was in the forecast so we packed up quick, ate our hot porridge and coffee, and got cracking just as the precipitation started in a sideways, sleety fashion. I wasn’t worried about getting much snowfall, but lack of visibility is no fun.
We got a break in the weather just as we approached the historic Waihohonu Hut. This is the oldest existing mountain hut in New Zealand, just a short side trip from the main track, so we took the detour. This place is charming, and contains a lot of history from travellers, skiers, and explorers. If those walls could talk….
Just as we left, the snow started falling again, this time light and fluffy. We were dressed for it, and continued on as we could see the heavy cloud around Ruapehu.
Just like the third day, we remembered it’s not always the bluebird, sunny days that are the most beautiful. The snow was dusting the trails and vegetation, there was only the sound of the rivers and the swooshing with each step of our waterproof pants. Mt Ngauruhoe and Tongariro were to our right, Ruapehu to our left, and there wasn’t a soul in site. We could have been anywhere, and I would have taken a good guess for it being Narnia.
Eventually we got to a junction in the trail where it meets the day walk for the Tama Lakes (you can add it as a side-trip for RTM as well). Here, we met a group of Sir Edmond Hillary Outdoor Pursuit students, then there were a few day hikers, and not too long following our first view of “The Château” we came across more people dressed in jeans, sneakers, and even carrying handbags. Civilisation was nearing, and we were about to arrive right back where we started.
As I often find with multi-day and thru hikes, those last few kilometers have this overwhelming feeling of satisfaction. We were both a bit sad for it coming to an end, but also in disbelief about how perfect everything had gone, and how lucky we were to have that exact experience. We had exerted ourselves enough to feel it was a physical accomplishment, but the return to ourselves and to nature was a complete restoration.
Arriving back at the car with high-fives, and now - full sunshine, we remembered we still had the 4.5 hour drive home back into the sun. So, the music we hadn’t listened to for six days went on, the windows went down, and we drove away finishing our scroggin and stream water.
We had been talking about the end-of-trip beer and burger since day three, so we still had something to look forward to. We stopped in at the Waikino Tavern in the Karangahake Gorge. The fire was roaring and we got a warm table beside it to debrief, reflect, and cheers to the new memories made.
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Check out more of our favourite photos & videos from this trip
Planning your own trip
Accommodation Before and/or After your Adventure
Ohakune:
Powderhorn Chateau $$$
Rocky Mountain Chalets $$
DOC Campground - Mangawhero Campsite $
Whakapapa Village
Skotel Alpine Resort $$
Whakapapa Holiday Park $
National Park
Plateau Lodge $$
Alpine Chalets $$
The Crossing Lodge and Backpackers $
DOC Campground - Mangahuia Campsite $
Track Considerations
Direction:
Most accounts of the track (Including the one on the DOC website) will refer to the track in clockwise direction, and starting at Whakapapa Village. We went
the opposite way and this blog post refers to it this way - anti-clockwise. The best way to choose which way to go, and where to start (Ohakune is a good base too), is from looking at the weather. The un-bridged crossing between Ohakune Mountain Road to Mangaturuturu Hut and Mangaturuturu Hut to Whakapapaiti, means if there's been descent rain, or it's in the forecast, you can plan to miss those days by walking another section first / later in the walk. I can imagine the section between Ohakune Mountain Road and Mangaehuehu hut around Waitonga Falls could also become impassable. If in doubt, don't go out.
Another factor you'll need to consider for direction and start point will be availability at Waihohonu hut / campsite if you intend to stay there.
Distances and times
Whakapapa Village to Whakapapaiti Hut - 7.5 km | 2 - 3 hours
Whakapapaiti Hut to Mangaturuturu Hut - 10 km | 7.5 hours
Mangaturuturu Hut to Mangaehuehu Hut - 13 km | 4.5 - 5.5 hours
Mangaehuehu Hut to Rangipo Hut - 8.5 km | 5 - 6 hours.
Rangipo Hut to Waihohonu Hut - 12.5 km | 5 hours
Waihohonu Hut to Whakapapa Village 14 km | 5 hours
Elevation Profile Click here for interactive map
Note that day one described in the blog is not in the link above, so refer to below for Whakapapa Village to Whakapapaiti Hut
Hut Information
Bookings
All huts apart from Waihohonu Hut are first come, first served. If you are hiking in a popular period such as summer holidays, consider taking a tent or bivvy for back-up. It's a quiet track, however, especially on a weekend - space inside the hut is never guaranteed.
All huts apart from Waihohonu Hut are serviced huts. You'll need a backcountry hut pass, or hut tickets to stay the night. A backcountry hut pass allows you to stay in as many serviced and standard huts as you like over a year, but it is still best to check the DOC website before you go (some aren't included).
Waihohonu is part of a Great Walk, and you will need to book this hut or campsite space for accomodation between 24 October and 30 April (accurate for 2025/2026 season). Outside of this time, booking's are not required (first come, first served) and you can stay with serviced hut tickets, or a backcountry hut pass.
Facilities
Bunks with mattress (take your own bedding)
No gas apart from Waihohonu Hut in the Great Walk Season (take your own gas for cooking and boiling water).
Non-flush toilets at all sites. Please use these.
Fire. All huts have a fireplace. When we were there, there was a reasonable supply of firewood in each hut, apart from Waihohonu. If there is little left, consider making do without one and leaving for walking parties who might be in worse / emergency situations than you (wet, hypothermic etc). The huts do get resupplied through the year. Don't cut down vegetation.
Hut rangers. Only Waihohonu Hut has a stationed hut ranger during the Great Walk Season. Hut rangers for all other huts and times are intermittent.
Water. Water is available at all huts. Boiling or filtering is recommended.
What to Pack
We used the exact list below to pack for our trip, plus / minus a couple of things because we weren't camping. We recommend you use it as well.
*As mentioned under the hut information, remember there is no gas apart from Waihohonu Hut in the Great Walks Season, and you need your cooking equipment as well.
Safety
Leave your intentions with someone who you trust to follow up on your safe arrival at the finish.
Enter your details and intentions in each hut's logbook when you stay. It is a good idea to put them in even if you're just passing through.
Check the weather, and get familiar with where there are river crossings.
Check the volcanic alert level HERE
Take a personal locator beacon (PLB) or InReach tracker.
Carry all safety equipment listed in our packing checklist
Helpful and Interesting Links
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